Ah, la France! Alma Mater to us all! Cradle of
the Golden Sauce! Origin of The Blessing of Mankind! Land whose tongue first
tasted and first baptised the Sauce of Sauces! Garden of Eden where that
anonymous genius, the Original Adam of whisk and mixing bowl, first made Thee,
Oh Paradisiacal Emulsion, for the benefit of his lovely spouse (1), and first
named Thee, Oh Devine Dip, after Thy rich, delicious, magnificent yolk (2)!
Happy, thrice happy realm where such timeless ambrosia as Oeuf Mayonnaise,
Frites Mayonnaise, Lobster
Mayonnaise and Mayonnaise à la Mayonnaise were first invented! Where
bottled godsends like Amora, Beaumont, Benedicta, Casino, Lesieux, Maurel,
Maille, Heinrich Hamker, Pikarome, and many many other superb brands may be had
from the well-filled shelves of all your unsurpassed Supermarchés of taste and sophistication! How could I have forsaken
thee for so long? How could I treat of thee only on the Ides of March of my
second blogging year!? But be soothed, my beloved, be soothed! For yes, I shall
be as Frank as You are! I may have forsaken thee a while, but never did I
forget you for the flutter of an eyelid! Not a day goes by without a soft
prayer for thy health, for thy happiness and for thy cuisine, brushes my lips,
both before and after that greatest contribution thou hast made to Mankind's
Happiness is partaken by my grateful mouth and palate!
(1) There are – Greek – historians who are
convinced that this here brand goes back to the original Mayonnaise made in the
Garden of Eden below the Tree of Knowledge.
(2) For the correct etymology of ‘Mayonnaise’,
see this here earlier post.
But, all modest patriotism aside, let us get
back to business with the description of today’s fine brand: Benedicta from… -
surprise! - …. France!
F2.
Benedicta. Paris, 1981. Price unknown. 530 ml/500 gr
F10.
Benedicta. Toulouse, June 1996. Ffr. 13 for 500 ml/470 gr
Benedicta is one
of the great household names in France. It fills the slot of the Hellmanns, the
Krafts and the Calvés that elsewhere destroy the taste buds and the reputation
of national cuisines and undermine the competitive chances of home-made
products in countries too feeble to defend themselves. (A happy nation is
France indeed! A magnificent Maginot line of Good Taste ensures that the
Yankee-Kraut multinationals cannot get away with their cheap tricks here!)
With its subtle
verbal reminder of monasteries, dark beer and (of course) first class
mustard, this Benedicta Mayonnaise is Blessed indeed! But it is also a
brand which needs its time and demands a little patience from the partaker. At
first bite after opening the jar, the taste seems to evaporate on the tongue,
and a momentary disillusion sets in. Where is the Benedicta of my youth, the experienced,
mature consumer asks himself? Did the manufacturer, like so many unscrupulous businessmen before him, trade in the glory of his former product for the gastronomy of the
suburbs and the banality of the banlieux? Has Benedicta perhaps degenerated into a Been-adicta???
But no: it is
not a change of recipe, but a lack of persistence, which causes the sensation. A
couple of days after opening the jar, the sauce, left to breath for a
reasonable period of time, matures on its own strength. It ripens. It grows. And
an unexpected treasure of spicy aroma returns, rich in layers of flavor,
generous in boons of satisfaction.
Substance and
colour of this brand are quite correct, although - especially as we approach
the bottom of the larger jars, the sauce tends to become somewhat too fluid.
Hence it is not, perhaps, a briliant affair, but for those with patience, a
worthwhile one!
I shall take pics of all the Arabic Mayo Labels in your honour sir.
ReplyDeleteOh, you would do me an immense favor if you did so, because the Mittington Mayonaise Label Collection is shamefully deficient in items from Middle Eastern and North African countries!! In fact: the only label from the area is the sad Tunesian one of which I treated in the later Lesieux post (which I guess you saw?) Would it be too much to ask if I entreated you to buy a few bottles, soak off the labels and send them to me by mail? I promise to pay you back in kind somehow, whenever there is anything Alfred B Mittington can do for you.
ReplyDeleteYours, most gratefully, ABM
I would be honoured to add to your esteemed collection Mr. Mittington. If you could kindly forward me your postal address?
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteIt will be forwarded to you by separate email and under a different identity (just in case the NSA is watching us and we end up in the madhouse for having so very weird a collection!)
Yours, a most grateful Alfred.